Off the Beaten Path: Adventures in Moldova

Aug 21-24

We decided to add a short trip to Moldova, figuring we might never be closer. I found an overnight train from Bucharest Nord station to Chișinău, Moldova, for just $115 roundtrip for the two of us—a great deal!

The entire 360 km journey takes about 13 and a half hours. We were aware the border crossing could take quite some time (2-3 hours) because they need to change the train’s wheels. Yes, you read that right—they change the wheels! This is due to the European standard tracks being slightly narrower than the Moldovan tracks, known as Russian Broad Gauge. This wheel change typically starts around 3:00 AM.

The carriages were Moldovan, of the classic ex-Soviet type. From the travel blogs we read, it seemed the sleeper compartments would be old but comfortable. Unfortunately, I couldn’t book a two-person sleeper and had to settle for a four-person sleeper, meaning we would share with two strangers. Upon boarding, we found the sleeper compartment unsuitable to share with the two Moldovans we were matched with, who didn’t speak English. I spoke with the conductor and offered to pay (~$50) for an “upgrade” to a two-person sleeper. After the train left the station, he relocated the Moldovan couple and converted our compartment for two people. This made the journey bearable, as we then had sufficient room for our luggage and could spread out. We never found out what happen to the “relocated” Moldovan couple.

The Train

The ancient train waiting to leave from Bucharest Nord
Our compartment for two (after the conductor upgrade) all made up for sleeping
One of the beds
Sunset on the overnight train
Looking out the door of our compartment
Wheel change at 4am
Train car interior
Ready to get off this train!
Arrival Chisinau 845a
Chisinau Station

Milestii Mici

The primary reason for our trip to Moldova was to visit the largest wine cellar (Milestii Mici) in the world, which houses over 1.5 million bottles of wine. We toured 5 km of the 55 km of underground galleries, originally created from lime mining operations.

Entrance
On our bikes, ready to go
35 meters deep
Guinness Book Certificate
Wine lodges, each holds up to 1,000 bottles
Lodge 26, Vintage 1987, 956 bottles
Lodge 192, Vintage 1987, 758 bottles
80 meters deep
Wine tasting
Friends we met on the tour, Emirates flight attendants

Around Chisinau

The Triumphal Arch
The Great National Assembly Square on a hot day
Monument of the guy on the money (Stephen the Great)
Valea Morilor Park
We stayed next to Mall Dova
View from our room
Checking out, on to Constanta

Border Crossing Traffic – Moldova to Romania

Nancy couldn’t handle another overnight train journey, so we booked a ride to Constanța via gettransfer.com. While this was a good plan, the expected 6-7 hour drive turned into an 11-hour ordeal due to a 4-hour wait at the Moldova-Romania border.

Yikes!
Almost there…